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Why your skin gets worse before it gets better on acids

3 min· Written by chemists

Purging is a real phenomenon. Irritation is not the same thing. Here is how to tell them apart.

Purging is real, briefly

When you start an ingredient that speeds up cell turnover (AHAs, BHA, retinoids), congestion that was already forming under the surface rises faster than it otherwise would. You see a wave of blemishes in your usual problem areas over 2 to 6 weeks. This is purging, and it settles.

Irritation is different

Breakouts in new places, especially in patterns like along a jawline or where product pools, plus stinging or tightness, is irritation, not purging. Reduce frequency, use a barrier cream, and give the routine 5 to 7 days to reset.

The rule

Purging in old spots, on schedule. Irritation in new spots, with symptoms. If in doubt, cut back and reintroduce slowly.

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